Washer is Making Noises
Start Your Repair:Troubleshooting Tub Bearing and Seal Drain Pump and Motor Shock Absorbers
Is the washer level?
If the washer is not level, there may be excessive vibration, or the drum may make contact with the cabinet, producing a loud, clanging sound. Level the washing machine by adjusting the feet.
Are there foreign objects in the washer, such as coins or toys?
Be careful to empty all pockets before loading clothes, and make sure no hard objects are included in the load.
Is the washer's load unbalanced?
Open the lid and redistribute the load.
Is the washer making a knocking sound?
A newly installed washer may make a knocking sound if it has been in storage, and the belt may have settled. Run the washer for 4-5 cycles to loosen the belt. If the belt is still noisy, replace it.
Is the washer making a grinding sound?
The tub bearing may be worn or failing.
Tub Bearing and Seal
Important: Unplug the washer from its power source before starting any inspection or repair work.
The tub bearing is a part on both front load and top load washers. This bearing allows the wash basket to move freely during the agitation and spin cycles.
On a front load washer, there are usually two bearings, both located in the rear of the outer tub. The bearings are sealed to keep water from entering, but over time and repeated use, the seal can wear down and water, soap, and dirt can seep in. When that happens, the bearings will eventually fail.
When the tub bearing is the problem, your machine will make a loud rumbling noise during the spin cycle. If you hear that noise, you can inspect the machine by checking the tub for excessive play. If you're able to move the tub up and down, and side to side, that can indicate a tub bearing issue.
Further inspection and repair requires disassembly of the machine. You'll need to remove the outer tub and wash basket in order to diagnose. If replacing the tub bearing, the tub seal should be replaced as well.
Drain Pump and Motor
The drain pump pushes water out of the machine for draining. Under normal circumstances, the pump should run sliently. If it's not, it's possible a foreign object such as a wire or small toy is stuck inside. After removing the power, carefully remove the front panel to access the pump. Inspect it for foreign objects and check the impeller for damage. If necessary, replace the pump.
Some machines have the pump and motor in a single unit. On these, the entire assembly will need to be replaced.
Similar to the door switch, the door lock signals to the washer that it's okay to start. The door lock must be engaged for the machine won't run. If the door switch tests okay, the next part to inspect is the door lock motor.
After unplugging the machine and removing the front panel p-3 bg-light, test the door lock motor for continuity with a multimeter.
Note: The information here is general and may not be specific to your machine. If you need help with choosing the correct parts for your model, you can contact us using the tech support form or calling our parts support team at 1-323-490-1805. If you leave a message, we’ll get back to you within 24 hours.
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